Irohazaka Winding Road (Tochigi)
If there’s one road that makes motorcyclists in Japan light up with excitement, it’s the Irohazaka Winding Road. This legendary stretch of road in the mountains of Nikko is a thrill ride like no other, packed with hairpin turns, jaw-dropping views, and just the right amount of challenge to keep you grinning all the way. It’s one of our most favorite routes, winding its way up (and then down) the slopes, with 48 sharp turns—one for each character of the Japanese alphabet, in case you're curious.
Setting the Scene: Where the Road Begins
So, where exactly is this curvy delight? The Irohazaka Winding Road connects the town of Nikko, a place known for its UNESCO World Heritage temples and shrines, to the Oku-Nikko area, where you’ll find stunning natural spots like Lake Chuzenji and Kegon Falls. It’s about a two-hour ride from Tokyo, but once you’re out here, the hustle and bustle feels a world away. The air is crisp, especially in the autumn when the trees put on a fiery display of red, orange, and gold.
Nikko itself is a small, laid-back town that feels like the gateway to adventure. There are plenty of places to fuel up and grab a quick bite before tackling the road, with cozy cafes, ramen joints, and a few local spots serving up tasty soba noodles.
The Route
Alright, let’s get down to business. Irohazaka isn’t your average twisty road; it’s basically a melody of hairpin turns, one after another, snaking up and down the mountain. The road is actually split into two sections: one for the climb up and one for the descent. It keeps things nice and orderly, which is good because you’ll want to focus on banking on those turns.
The ascent is pure fun, with tight switchbacks that seem to pull you closer and closer to the sky. It’s the kind of road that forces you to stay sharp, but there’s a flow to it—once you get into the rhythm, the turns almost feel like a dance. There are signs marking each of the 48 curves, a cool reminder of the history behind the road. The name "Irohazaka" comes from the old Japanese alphabet, and each corner was named after a character.
The road’s steepest section takes you up to an elevation of about 1,200 meters, where the views explode into sight. It’s breathtaking, seriously. There’s a pull-off halfway up where you can catch your breath and take in the entire valley below, with the forests stretching out like a sea of green (or a fiery red in autumn). And when you reach the top, there’s the prize: Lake Chuzenji, a tranquil, glassy lake that feels like it’s hidden away in the clouds.
The way down is a totally different beast. This time, gravity’s got your back. The downhill section has a similar vibe to the ascent, but there’s a different kind of thrill in letting the bike roll with the flow of the road. It’s still twisty, still technical, and still demanding of your full attention. As you wind down the mountain, the road opens up to new views, like Kegon Falls. This is one of Japan’s most famous waterfalls, and it’s definitely worth a stop. There’s a viewing platform that lets you get close enough to feel the mist, which is pretty refreshing after a heated ride.
Highlights & What to Expect
Riding Irohazaka is an experience that hits all the right notes. Here’s what stands out:
The road itself is a playground for motorcyclists. It’s not the longest ride, but the sheer number of turns packed into a few kilometers keeps you engaged. There’s no room for zoning out as every turn demands focus. That’s what makes it so addictive.
It’s tough to describe just how stunning this area is. The forest is dense and green in the summer, but if you’re here in the autumn, you’re in for a show. The colors are vivid and the higher you climb, the more expansive the views get. Between the valley below and the lake at the top, you’ll want to stop every so often just to soak it all in.
Irohazaka has this wild, untamed feel to it. The road hugs the mountain so closely that it feels like you’re part of the landscape. There’s often a light mist in the air, which adds a kind of mystic aesthetic, especially on early mornings or late afternoons. And if you’re lucky, you might catch sight of some local wildlife.
Food Stops
Once you’re back in Nikko, it’s time to treat yourself. Try the local yuba (tofu skin), which is surprisingly good and often served with soba noodles. There’s a great little place right in town that makes a simple but satisfying yuba soba. And if you’re craving something more substantial, a warm bowl of Nikko’s famous ramen is hard to beat. After all that riding, there’s nothing like a hearty, steaming bowl of noodles.
Verdict
The Irohazaka Winding Road is one of those rides that leaves you wanting to come back. It's challenging and spectacular all at once, and you get a special feeling at the end of it that is like you've just conquered a mountain. It's not for beginners, as it's a route that demands respect, but it also rewards those who take the time to experience it fully. If you’re in Japan and looking for a ride that combines adrenaline with some of the country’s most incredible scenery, put Irohazaka at the top of your list.
Score (out of 5)
Stylish Rank: Super Stylin’!
Scenery: 5
Technicality: 4
Road Quality: 4.5
Challenge: 4
Accessibility and Traffic: 3
Connecting /Nearby Routes
For a longer journey, here are three other scenic routes in the Nikko area to connect with the Irohazaka Winding Road for a full day of exploration.
1. Nikko Skyline (Nikko Kirifuri Skyline) (日光霧降高原道路))
The Nikko Skyline is a scenic toll road that provides sweeping views of the Nikko mountains, including Mount Nantai, but it is a little hard to find,
- Location: Starts near Lake Chuzenji and loops through the Kirifuri Highlands.
- Search Terms: "Nikko Skyline" or 日光霧降高原道路
- Route Number: Not numbered, it is a local toll road.
- Tip: Stop at Akechidaira Observatory for some of the best views over the Nikko region. The area is beautiful year-round, but especially striking during autumn foliage season.
2. Lake Chuzenji Scenic Route (National Route 120) (中禅寺湖周辺)
Route 120 circles Lake Chuzenji, one of Nikko’s most beautiful lakes, offering lovely lakeside views and access to key attractions like Kegon Falls and the British Embassy Villa Memorial Park.
- Location: Circles Lake Chuzenji and connects directly with the Irohazaka Winding Road.
- Search Terms: "Lake Chuzenji Route 120" or 中禅寺湖 国道120号線
- Route Number: National Route 120
- Tip: Visit Kegon Falls, one of Japan’s most famous waterfalls, which is accessible from Route 120.
3. Akechidaira Ropeway Road (Route 250) (明智平ロープウェイ道路)
Route 250 leads to the Akechidaira Ropeway, which offers some of the best views of Mount Nantai, Lake Chuzenji, and the surrounding Nikko area.
- Location: Located near Route 120, with access to the Akechidaira Ropeway station.
- Search Terms: "Akechidaira Ropeway" or 明智平ロープウェイ
- Route Number: Route 250, connecting with Route 120.
- Tip: Take a short break and ride the Akechidaira Ropeway up to the observation deck.
Planning Your Own Japan Motorbike Tour?
If you're planning your own motorbike tour through Japan, renting a bike is a great option. Our friends at Rental819 are a fantastic choice for foreign riders—they offer a wide selection of well-maintained bikes at reasonable prices, with locations all across Japan. They're also known for being very foreigner-friendly, making the process easy even if your Japanese isn't perfect.
Whether you're after a quick weekend trip or a full-blown tour, Rental819 has got you covered. And if you need any tips or advice along the way, feel free to reach out! At Shogun Motorbike Adventures, we're always happy to help fellow riders experience the incredible roads and rich culture that Japan has to offer.
Experience This Route On A Shogun Motorbike Adventure:
We are working hard to bring you a fantastic adventure that features some of the above routes.
If you can’t wait until then, and want to experience what else Japan has on offer, check out our Fuji Explorer Tour, with 7-day and 10-day options, both running in May and October 2025 and 2026.
As well as the Fuji Explorer Tour, in 2026 we will be running the Mountain Strider Tour, the Volcanic Voyage Tour and the Wilderness Expedition Tour. These are brand new tours that you can read up about and register interest for right now.
