I’ve said this time and time again whenever someone has asked me about the allure of travelling in Japan on two wheels:
imagine kicking off your motorbike journey not just across the land, but through the pages of history itself.
Japan isn’t just a journey on roads, it’s a journey through an ancient land which for most of its history was isolated and cut off from outside influences. This means we have a purely unique nation full of unique culture and experiences to enjoy.
But beyond the cultural notes, there are also physical aspects and structures such as the ancient towns and roads that are like the lifeblood of the country, and are steeped in stories of history.
On Japan's ancient highways, every twist and turn tells a story, and every mile is a step back into a time when samurai, merchants, and pilgrims traced these paths between the nation’s historic capitals.
Now, many of these roads you cannot actually drive or ride on, and they are not a continuous trail anymore. However, some of the paths have been incorporated into the national roads and highways, which can be traversed on a motorbike The best way to experience these are to simply stop off on your journey along the route in one of the many historic towns that lie on the ancient highway trails.
The Tokaido Road
The Tōkaidō Road, once trodden by feudal lords and common folk alike, was a bustling highway during the Edo period, connecting Edo (modern Tokyo) to Kyoto. Today, it offers a blend of urban sprawl and serene landscapes.
It is one of Japan's Five Routes and the most historically significant. While modern development means the original road doesn't exist in its entirety for motorbiking, the adventure doesn't stop there. Your ideal journey will integrate scenic rides on the national highways (i.e. Tomei expressway and National Highway 1) to key towns along the route, paired with exploratory hikes on preserved sections of the old road.
Key Towns and Hiking Opportunities:
- Hakone: Hakone is known for its picturesque lake and views of Mount Fuji. Here,you can park your bike and take a hike along the ancient cedar-lined paths of the old Tōkaidō road. The Hakone Checkpoint is a truly interesting sight for history buffs - it is a reconstructed historical barrier, and offers insights into how control of traffic along the trail was conducted during the feudal period.
- Mishima: Riding further along, you can make a stop at Mishima. The nearby Hakone Shrine, nestled along Lake Ashi, is a short ride and hike away. The serene atmosphere provides a reflective space to ponder the mingling of nature and spirituality that characterises the ancient road.
- Shizuoka: If you continue down past Hakone and further west, you will find yourself in Shizuoka, where sections of the old Tōkaidō can be hiked near Mariko. This area is famous for its tea houses, like the historically renowned Chojiya, where you can stop for a traditional 'tororojiru' meal (grated yam soup), just as weary travellers did in the past.
You can experience some of the key segments of the Tokaido Road on our flagship Fuji Explorer tour, where we stay a night in Hakone, and offer ample time for you to take in some of these ancient trails.
The Nakasendo Trail
The Nakasendō Trail is one of Japan’s most iconic ancient routes. Once a lifeline for feudal lords, samurai, and common folk, it was a vital mountainous route during the Edo period, connecting Kyoto to Edo (modern Tokyo). Like a ribbon through the heart of Japan's rugged interior, it offered an alternative to the coastal Tōkaidō Road.
Today, like the Tokaido, it is still preserved in key sections and offers some prime trails for hiking. Although the original path is not fully navigable by motorbike due to its terrain and preservation efforts, the adventure continues with a mix of riding on adjacent modern roads and hiking historic segments.
What James and I like to do whenever we ride through this area is to ride along the nearby roads of the Nakasendo (these are winding pathways through the mountains for some fun twisties!), and stop off in the many quaint and picturesque postal towns that have been beautifully preserved and offer an authentic slice of ancient Japan.
Key Towns and Hiking Opportunities:
Magome to Tsumago:
- Ride to Magome: Start your motorbike journey by riding up to Magome, where the vehicle restrictions signal it’s time to switch to foot. Park your bike and prepare for one of the most famous walks in Japan—the path between Magome and Tsumago.
- Hiking the Trail: This well-maintained section of the Nakasendō is a hiker's delight, offering stunning views over the Kiso Valley and passing through forests and past waterfalls that seem unchanged by time.
- Exploring Tsumago: Once you arrive in Tsumago, it’s like stepping back in time. Here, cars are banned, and power lines are hidden to preserve its Edo-period atmosphere. Walking the cobblestone streets, you're surrounded by wooden inns and traditional shops, all maintaining historical accuracy.
Narai:
- Ride and Walk: Continue your journey to Narai, another beautifully preserved post town. Known as the "Narai of a Thousand Houses," this town thrived during the Edo period as a wealthy merchant stopover. Here, you can admire the long stretch of traditional houses and artisan shops.
- Cultural Immersion: Don’t miss visiting some local craftsmen at work, possibly crafting lacquerware or intricate woodwork, providing a hands-on connection to the traditional arts that have sustained these communities for centuries.
The Nakasendō Trail offers a unique blend of motorbiking and hiking, on both the Fuji Explorer 7 Day and 10 Day tours, you will get to experience the Nakasendo trail. However, it is on the 10 Day tour where we really soak in this awesome slice of history, with an actual trek from Tsumago to Magome, before heading over to Narai.
Our upcoming Mountain Strider tour cuts straight through the other side of the Nakasendo, through the Kiso Valley and Gifu, which offers some challenging twisties, interspersed with even more ancient historic towns.
The Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Routes
Like the Tokaido and Nakasendo, the Kumano Kodō Pilgrimage Routes truly take you on a journey back in time. This network of ancient paths was once walked by emperors and samurai who were on spiritual journeys. It is weaved through the mystical landscapes of the Kii Peninsula. Here, the dense forests and rugged mountains provide a perfect backdrop for reflection and exploration, connecting the sacred sites of the Kumano Sanzan—the three Grand Shrines of Kumano.
Like the Nakasendō Trail, the Kumano Kodō isn't fully navigable by motorbike due to its sacred and preserved nature, but that doesn't stop the adventure. It actually starts with a ride to the trailheads where you can park your bike and continue on foot, following in the footsteps of centuries of pilgrims.
What James and I love to do is ride up to the entrance of these pilgrimage routes, where the air starts to feel a bit cooler and the scenery shifts to more natural scenes. We park our bikes, switch to hiking boots, and hit the trails.
Key Routes and Experiences on the Kumano Kodō:
- Nakahechi Route: Start from Tanabe City on the western coast of the peninsula. This route is the most popular and well-trodden path leading to the Grand Shrines. The trail is dotted with smaller shrines that offer quiet moments of reflection.
- Kohechi Route: This is a mountainous path linking the Buddhist temple complex of Koyasan with Kumano. It's more challenging, but the panoramic views and the sense of achievement when reaching the shrines are unmatched.
- Iseji Route: For those coming from or heading to Ise Grand Shrine, this eastern approach is scenic, with coastal views that contrast sharply with the dense forest interiors of the other routes.
While this route isn’t available on our Fuji Explorer or Mountain Strider tours, we are working hard to bring you a brand new tour in 2026 which will cover this historic region. Keep your eyes peeled for updates!
